A database of common hair care ingredients — what they do, who they suit, and whether they deserve a place in your routine.
Ingredients are rated on a simple three-point scale: Choose (broadly beneficial), Caution (situational or potentially irritating), and Avoid (known irritants or unnecessary additives). Remember: no ingredient is universally good or bad. Your hair type, scalp condition, and routine all affect how an ingredient performs.
| Ingredient | Type | What It Does | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Argan Oil Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil |
Emollient / Oil | Penetrates hair shaft; rich in vitamin E and fatty acids; reduces breakage and frizz. | |
| Coconut Oil Cocos Nucifera Oil |
Penetrating Oil | Reduces protein loss; penetrates shaft deeply. Can be heavy for fine hair. | |
| Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil |
Emollient / Oil | Mimics natural sebum; lightweight; balances scalp oil production. | |
| Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii Butter |
Emollient / Butter | Rich moisturizer; seals in hydration; ideal for coily and curly hair. | |
| Glycerin Glycerin |
Humectant | Draws moisture into hair shaft. Excellent in humid climates; can cause frizz in dry climates. | |
| Aloe Vera Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice |
Hydrator / Soother | Soothes scalp; pH-balancing; lightweight hydration. | |
| Panthenol Panthenol / Pro-Vitamin B5 |
Conditioner | Penetrates hair shaft; improves moisture retention and elasticity. | |
| Hydrolyzed Keratin Hydrolyzed Keratin |
Protein | Temporarily repairs damaged cuticle; strengthens. Overuse causes brittleness. | |
| Castor Oil Ricinus Communis Seed Oil |
Emollient / Oil | Thick, viscous oil; seals moisture. Popular for scalp massages. Heavy for fine hair. | |
| Rosemary Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis Oil |
Essential Oil | May stimulate scalp circulation. Must be diluted; can irritate sensitive skin. | |
| Tea Tree Oil Melaleuca Alternifolia Oil |
Essential Oil / Antimicrobial | Antimicrobial; may help dandruff. Must be diluted; common irritant. | |
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate SLS |
Surfactant / Detergent | Strong cleanser; strips oils. Fine for oily hair; drying for curly or color-treated hair. | |
| Sodium Laureth Sulfate SLES |
Surfactant | Milder than SLS; common in shampoos. Generally acceptable for most hair types. | |
| Dimethicone Dimethicone |
Silicone | Smooths cuticle; adds shine. Non-water-soluble; can build up without clarifying. | |
| Amodimethicone Amodimethicone |
Silicone | Targeted conditioning silicone; less prone to buildup than dimethicone. | |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine CAPB |
Surfactant | Gentle coconut-derived cleanser; good alternative to sulfates. | |
| Decyl Glucoside Decyl Glucoside |
Surfactant | Very gentle plant-derived cleanser; ideal for sensitive scalps. | |
| Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol |
Fatty Alcohol / Emollient | Not a drying alcohol. Emollient and thickener; softens and conditions. | |
| Behentrimonium Methosulfate BTMS |
Conditioning Agent | Gentle detangler; excellent for curly hair conditioning. | |
| Isopropyl Alcohol Isopropyl Alcohol |
Solvent / Drying Alcohol | Dries out hair; strips moisture. Common in cheap styling products. | |
| Formaldehyde Releasers DMDM Hydantoin, Quaternium-15 |
Preservative | Release trace formaldehyde; known sensitizers and irritants. | |
| Parabens Methylparaben, Propylparaben |
Preservative | Effective preservatives but controversial; potential endocrine disruptors. | |
| Synthetic Fragrance Fragrance / Parfum |
Fragrance | Trade-secret blends; common allergen and irritant. Look for fragrance-free. | |
| Phthalates DEP, DBP |
Plasticizer | Used in fragrances; linked to hormonal disruption. |
Surfactants are the cleansing agents in shampoo. They lift oil and dirt from hair. Sulfates (SLS, SLES) are the strongest; cocamidopropyl betaine and decyl glucoside are gentler alternatives. Your choice depends on how much cleansing your hair and scalp need.
Emollients soften and smooth the hair cuticle. They range from lightweight (jojoba, argan) to heavy (shea butter, castor oil). Fine hair does best with lighter emollients; coily and curly hair can handle richer ones.
Humectants draw moisture from the air into the hair shaft. Glycerin is the most common. They work well in humid climates but can cause frizz in very dry climates where they pull moisture out of hair instead.
Hydrolyzed proteins (keratin, silk, wheat) temporarily fill in gaps in the hair cuticle. They strengthen damaged hair but can cause brittleness if overused. Most hair needs protein only occasionally.
Silicones coat the hair shaft, smoothing the cuticle and adding shine. Non-water-soluble silicones (dimethicone) require a clarifying shampoo to remove. Water-soluble silicones (dimethicone copolyol) rinse out easily.
Preservatives prevent bacterial and fungal growth in water-based products. Some (phenoxyethanol) are generally safe; others (formaldehyde releasers, parabens) are controversial. Products without preservatives have very short shelf lives.
Want to dive deeper? Read our complete guide on how to read a hair product ingredient label, or explore what 10 natural oils actually do for your hair.
